Tired of being recommended the Prague Castle as a must-visit destination? Or maybe you’ve already been to Prague several times and you just want something new and non-toursity? Perhaps, like us, big attractions and large crowds just send your anxiety into overdrive. Either way, I feel you; you’re simply looking for something weird, unusual or just plain different to add to your upcoming Prague itinerary.
Well, we’ve got you covered. We are committed to alternative travel and here are our top recommendations for how to explore Prague off the beaten path. The best news is, these aren’t even difficult to get to, and many are in Prague city centre.
Please note: We are calling this a one-day Prague itinerary because you can feasibly do all of these things in one day if you’re the kind of person that likes to pack a lot into a single day. We don’t, but we recognise that with limited time, you want to see as much as possible and maybe only have one day to spend doing non-touristy and unusual things in Prague. In fact, depending on the person, you might even be able to fit in a few more popular activities!
IS IT REALLY NECESSARY TO HAVE A PRAGUE OFF THE BEATEN PATH ITINERARY?
The first time I visited Prague was in 2007 with my mother, and I was definitely a little bit awed. The Czech Republic was the first Eastern European country I visited and it ignited a bit of a love affair (and yes, I realise now it’s technically in Central Europe). Prague exuded so much personality and charm; it was unique and a little bit weird.
Back then, just going to Prague felt alternative. Even at my worldly International School, many people didn’t entirely know where Prague or the Czech Republic even was. Again, I thought it was very much Eastern Europe, and it just isn’t.
As my mother and I weren’t totally clued up on the darker side of Czech history, a visit to the Communism Museum seemed key. In 2007, the museum was housed in a series of small rooms above the McDonalds (that was their pitch). In the two hours we spent at the museum, we were the only ones to come in.
Today, that same museum has moved to be near the McDonalds, and is now massive. It’s also one of the most popular attractions in Prague, and therefore on many itineraries. (And yeah, it totally should be).
In 2007, we met very few people who spoke fluent English (I am by no means saying they didn’t exist, it just wasn’t a priority when staffing shops/restaurants/etc). And that was totally fine, because we weren’t in an English-speaking country.
But in 2018, when Jeremy and I visited, I honestly heard more English being spoken in almost every part of the city than I did Czech. And everywhere was swarming with tourists. I didn’t like it. The city I once loved seemed like it was starting to lose its quirky personality.
WHY YOU SHOULD SPEND [AT LEAST] ONE DAY IN PRAGUE OFF THE BEATEN PATH
I am not exaggerating when I say there were people everywhere. Okay, granted, we were there in peak Christmas Market season. But when we returned for a few days in April, it was nearly as bad.
Several museums I was looking forward to visiting, quickly got crossed off the list when we showed up to find hordes of tourists. We did endure trying to read all the info at the Heydrich Terror Memorial, though, despite having to squeeze into a relatively small (read: claustrophobic) space with a few tour groups who were all competing to talk over each other. However, I suspect this isn’t as bad when it’s warmer out (we went in December when it was freezing), as I think they generally chat about it outside. But I can say this one was worth the hassle.
Everywhere felt like a tourist trap. At the Sex Machines Museum (oh yes) I didn’t even make it past the ticket area since every single person who went in started giggling uncontrollably. (It was really more like cackling, potentially howling.)
I want to say I’m not judging you for being an immature twit… but I am. I’m totally judging you.
Look, I know I travel for a living and in doing so encourage others to travel, too, but I have learned over the years that if there’s a line of people and I have to fight to see something through other people… it better be pretty fucking spectacular, or I won’t be impressed.
Anyway, because I’m clearly not designed to be around other people, Jeremy and I decided to go looking for some weird and unusual things to do in Prag. And below is what we came up with.
Everything on this itinerary can be seen in one day. It is by no means meant to replace all the other big Prague attractions. But as I say, if you want something on your itinerary that’s a bit more alternative, and a little less touristy, these should do the trick!
A QUICK NOTE ON PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN PRAGUE
Prague is very easy to get around. Public transport is ubiquitous and will get you pretty much anywhere you need to go.
If you need to know how to get somewhere, you can just pop it into Google Maps and it will display the best route, including which bus, tram or metro to take.
Alternatively you can also check here for any routes, prices, etc.
Tickets must be purchased ahead of time. Some of the bus and tram stops have ticket machines, though not all. All of the metro stations have ticket machines, and these tickets are good on all forms of transport. Make sure you have Koruna coins, though, as not all of the ticket machines accept cards. As far as I remember, none of them are payable by bills.
We got all our tickets from the machines, but they should also be available in most tabák and potraviny shops, and at tourist information centres.
Taxify: Created by one of Estonia’s many tech geniuses, this app is essentially Uber. Except that in Eastern (and parts of Central) Europe it’s waaay cheaper and more reliable. We didn’t use it very often, but it was handy when we did.
Want a free ride? Use code PWS9N for your first ride up to €6 (around 154 Kč). And yeah, full disclosure, you get a free ride, I get a free ride.
PRAGUE Off the Beaten Path
1. Go on an alternative walking tour
We’re pretty big fans of walking tours. We can’t stop shouting their praises. A few of our favourites have been London street art with Dope Art Tours, and several walking tours that explore the darker side of London.
So it should come as no surprise that we’re recommending you start your exploration of alternative Prague with a walking tour.
We recommend either this jaunt through Prague’s lesser known neighbourhoods, including Žižkov (which we’ll talk about more below).
Alternatively (ha ha) this tour focuses on the alternative street art scene in Prague. And you know how much we love street art, right?
2. Statue & Sculpture Hunting
Whether you have one day or a month in the city, I thoroughly recommend you add statue/sculpture hunting to your off the beaten path Prague itinerary.
To be fair, there are statues everywhere in Prague. So as you cannot avoid them, some may not consider statue hunting to be all that unusual of a thing to do. But since some of Prague’s statues and sculptures are incredibly weird (and cool) as fuck, I think it counts.
Although beware, it’s probably one of the most time consuming activities on here, because you’ll soon find yourself traipsing to weird corners of the city in an effort to find some obscure statue by irreverent Czech artist David Černy. Or maybe that’s just me?
Anyway, here is one of our faves:
RELATED: Fall in Love With the Unusual Statues in Prague
3. Walking Among Ghosts
If you want to make it a little darker, many of the statues (though definitely not all) are linked to ghost stories. Why not get to know this incredibly old and historic city through some of its otherworldly figures?
A good place to start is the Golem in the Jewish quarter. While not necessarily a sinister dude, he’s not entirely innocent, either. Since we have written more on the Golem of Prague, I won’t give too much away. However, I can say he’s very popular in Prague!
(Psst: We also recommend a tasty Golem at the Golem Bakery.)
If you don’t want to go it alone, Prague is teeming with ghost walks, which run both at night and during the day. Why not check out one of these ghost tours:
4. Havlicek Gardens (Havlíčkovy Sady)
You wouldn’t really think it based on our normal fare, but we love parks and green spaces. Don’t get me wrong, we’re hardly outdoorsy. Although we’ve enjoyed the odd hike (like our ridiculous all day hike to the Tiger’s Nest), it’s hardly our thing. And it usually results in more pain than pleasure.
Also, I’m fairly certain I was a mole in a past life, and if I could easily live in a cold, dark, underground place, I probably would.
Yet for some reason, we both like parks.
I also like weird and offbeat stuff (clearly). So to be upfront, we originally went to Havlicek Gardens to see the Grotta.
Sadly, that was a bust. We don’t even have a photo as it was literally crawling with people. I guess it’s worth a look if you’re about. And if you happen to get there when there aren’t any people around (likely first thing in the morning), I bet it’s super.
But we’re lazy and we don’t do mornings unless we absolutely have to. Therefore we arrived square in the afternoon.
Long story short, we don’t think the Grotta is worth it. Then again, we may have had some bad luck, so don’t take our word 100% on this. But Havlicek Gardens is lovely. It’s got charm, great views of the city, oh, and a vineyard with a wine bar/restaurant.
Super random, but cool, right?
5. NATIONAL MARIONETTE THEATRE
Jeremy wrote this one because I was still recovering from a torn ligament and although I wanted so very desperately to go, I just couldn’t face the stairs looming in the entrance. So he went without me. But I trust his opinion, and therefore so should you.
On a narrow street in the Old Town, not too far from Prague’s famous astronomical clock, lies theNational Marionette Theatre. It’s still a fully functioning theatre as well, which is pretty cool, putting on daily performances. The building stands on the site of the original founding of the “Union Internationale de la Marionette” back in 1929. There is an adorable plaque dedicated to it on the street outside.
The current administration have been putting on productions since 1991, including over 4,000 performances of Mozart’s Don Giovanni. It’s really cool – they have period costumes, and a Mozart puppet to conduct the “orchestra” during performances and everything, which the music geek in me LOVES. (ahem) but anyway ….
(PS: you can book your tickets for a show at the theatre here!)
In addition to performances, the theatre offers a weekly tour every Thursday (at 11am and again at 1pm). Now, I’m a big fan of puppets. I grew up watching the Muppets and Sesame Street. Labyrinth is my favourite film (you heard me), so I made my way over for the next available session.
I’m happy to report that I had a great time! The tour comprises a video of the history of Prague puppetry (partly shown from the puppets’ point of view!) followed by a trip backstage and then down into the museum proper.
One of the best parts of the tour was that we got to handle the puppets from the actual production! All the characters, including Don Giovanni and Mozart himself were up for grabs. Something that surprised me was just how heavy the puppets were! They’re all about three feet tall and made of wood, so after making my puppet “walk” around for ten minutes my arms were feeling rough! The people who perform with them every night must be very strong indeed.
Our guide was happy to answer all the group’s questions while we played around with the marionettes. After (begrudgingly) handing them back we were taken underground into the museum showcases. There’s more interaction to be had there, too, as there’s a dollhouse-sized theatre with smaller puppets for kids (and adults who’ve waited for the kids to move on, definitely not me) to try out their own little plays.
For 90 Czech Korunas (about $4)** per person, the National Marionette Theatre is well worth your time, and goes a long way to show just how far passion and creativity can go when you’ve got no strings to hold you down.
**Correct at time of visit in April 2019
6. LESSER TOWN BRIDGE TOWER (MALOSTRANSKÉ MOSTECKÉ VĚŽE)
We were told this tower would be empty, but we didn’t believe it. Given that it is ON the Charles Bridge, which was absolutely teeming with people, this seemed highly unlikely. Still, we’re suckers for a good off the beaten path rumour, so we figured it couldn’t hurt to chuck it on the itinerary.
Okay, yeah, it’s on the other side of the bridge in Mala Strana (literally translated to “small side”), but I’d hardly call Mala Strana unpopular. For starters, this is the side of the bridge with the freaking Prague Castle and the Kafka Museum, two of Prague’s most popular attractions.
Nevertheless, I’m not exaggerating when I say it was more or less empty. It was us, Jeremy’s aunt and partner, and two wannabe Instagrammers (who were at least being a little original, I guess). So overall, one of the best non-touristy things to do in Prague, in my opinion.
I won’t lie to you, you will need to trek up about five flights of outrageously steep stairs to get to the top of the tower. And this is what puts people off going, I think. That and the fact that you have to pay. But the views from it are outstanding, and well worth the price. It cost us 100 Kč (just over $4) each in December 2018.
Make sure you watch your head, though: we saw more than one spot where some unfortunate climber had barely escaped with their head! (i.e. there were a few clumps of hair stuck in the rafters – yeah, kinda gross!)
Bonus: If you have no actual interest in seeing the Prague Castle, but you’d like a photo, this isn’t the worst option.
7. VYŠEHRAD CEMETERY, FORT AND BASILICA
THE CEMETERY
It just wouldn’t be us without something a little dark, so yes, there is a cemetery on this itinerary. In fact, Prague in general had a few cemeteries. But we’ve chosen to include the Vyšehrad Cemetery for several reasons.
For starters, it’s pretty, which I feel comes as standard with European cemeteries. But there are also a fair few famous Czechs buried here, and who doesn’t love a celebrity tombstone scavenger hunt? Actually, I don’t care, but I know some do!
People buried here that non-Czechs are most likely to recognise include Jaroslav Heyrovský, Antonín Dvořák, Alphonse Mucha, and Karel Čapek.
Yes, the man responsible for the word robot was Czech.
Also, this one is fairly central (and easily connected for those not wanting to walk). Plus, it has the built-in benefit of being connected to the rest of the Vyšehrad estate.
Bonus: Love cemeteries? Visit the Olšany Cemetery in the East of Prague. It is the biggest cemetery in the city and has separate sections for different religions. We definitely recommend this as a top alternative destination, we just didn’t want this list to be cemetery heavy. Plus, we really are going to write a separate article on the cemeteries, so it felt a tad superfluous to add more in here. But clearly I can’t help myself!
Related: A Tour of Prague’s Most Iconic Cemeteries
THE FORT
Once upon a time (10th century), Vyšehrad had a castle. As it lies on the other side of the river from Prague Castle, the two castles controlled opposing spheres of influence within Prague. Nevertheless, Prague Castle remained the predominant seat of influence as most of the royal family chose it as their seat – aside from weirdo Vratislav II who transferred his seat to Vyšehrad in the 11th century, before his son moved it back to Prague Castle.
Not surprisingly, Vratislav II is buried at Vyšehrad Cemetery.
Anyway, Vyšehrad Castle and Fort was a pretty big deal for several hundred years. Sadly, during the Hussite Wars in the 1400s, it was conquered, ransacked and then abandoned. It fell into ruin, and though it was remodeled several times over the centuries, it never again reached the same level of importance as Prague Castle.
Overtime, the Castle was demolished, and now all that remains is the cemetery, the fort and a Basilica (Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul).
It’s well worth a visit, though. We saw very few other visitors while we were there. Plus, it has some pretty rad views of the city being high up and all.
BASILICA OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL
Arguably, this is the real attraction at Vyšehrad. I obviously disagree and think it’s the cemetery, but the basilica isn’t bad, either.
The original basilica was built between 1070-1080. However, the current iteration – a cool neo-Gothic construction that looms over Prague – began construction in 1887.
When we visited, the basilica was the busiest part of the Vyšehrad complex. Indeed, most of the visitors there actually seemed a lot more interested in the basilica’s ornate doors – which, fine, I’ll admit were pretty damn good looking – and less bothered by anything else there.
That having been said, I would hardly call it busy.
I would recommend visiting Vyšehrad towards the end of the day (which is why it’s last on the itinerary, duh!) so you can get some good sunset views of the city.
That having been said, this really only works in the winter as the complex is still open at sunset. Otherwise, it’s kind of a moot point and it’s best to let the locations on the map (and the location of your accommodation) dictate the order you see things in.
Since I’m not you, I can’t say how long you’ll stay, but we definitely managed a good hour (if not a little longer). If religion, architecture or celebrity tombstones are your thing, you could easily tack on more time. We were starving, so we didn’t entirely linger.
BONUS: ŽIŽKOV TV TOWER & NEIGHBOURHOOD
Don’t have the time or money to take a day trip, but want to feel removed from the city for a bit? Why not spend a day in Žižkov? This is one of Prague’s up and coming neighborhoods, made somewhat [in]famous by the Žižkov TV Tower, which features more of David Černy’s Babies.
The tower was voted the second ugliest building in the world after Baltimore’s Morris A. Mechanic Theatre. Impressive, right?
At night it lights up.
Anyway, we didn’t spend too long in Žižkov, but the time we spent wandering was lovely, and I really think wandering around the neighbourhood is one of the more non-touristy and unusual things to do in Prague. We kind of stumbled on it by accident since we were visiting Olšany cemetery nearby (yes, the same one mentioned above). I think technically the cemetery actually falls into the Žižkov district, so there you go, one more thing to see and do while there.
Anyway, we honestly didn’t give the neighbourhood the time it deserves, but there’s a lot to explore. In addition to the Žižkov TV tower and the Olšany Cemetery, visitors wanting to add Žižkov to their Prague Itinerary can check out Jiřího z Poděbrad Square, even more parks, the Church of St. Prokop, Vitkov Hill and the Vitkov National Monument, Jiřák Farmers’ Market from Wednesday to Saturday, and any number of cafes and bars.
In case you missed it above, we recommend a walking tour led by a local expert that highlights the Žižkov neighbourhood.
What are you waiting for? Book it here!
PRAGUE ITINERARY: WHERE TO EAT
Sadly, I have no actual Czech places to recommend. I’m not saying the food isn’t delicious, but we certainly didn’t find a place that made us fall in love with it. Then again, as a vegetarian my Czech food options were fairly limited. But never fear, we still have some non-Czech suggestions. They’re not necessarily offbeat, but they are tasty.
Street Burger Bistro: We actually went the Street Burger Bistro twice because we found ourselves wandering around in Mala Strana one evening with no appealing food options – or nothing that did look appealing with available seating – so figured at least we knew this place was good. We got totally different things both times, and both times we were impressed (for veggies, I recommend the curry!).
They also do special lemonade flavours each day, and we enjoyed all the ones we tried.
Agave: Okay, I’m a total hypocrite because there aren’t even that many veggie options on Agave’s menu, but there was enough to fill me up with delicious food. Their nachos were on point and the virgin strawberry margarita was everything. Supposedly reservations are a necessity in the evenings, but when we rocked up in the afternoon it was empty.
La Piccola Perla: Tasty Italian food in a cute restaurant. Staff are friendly, Jeremy says the wine is good. So there you go.
I would 100% make reservations here if you’re going for dinner. Luckily we did have reservations, cause I doubt they would have had space for us otherwise.
FUN FACT! Did you know that the Vietnamese are the third largest ethnic minority in the Czech Republic (after Slovaks and Ukranians)? Random, right? Well, if you enjoy Vietnamese food, I have to wager it’s pretty tasty here. Sadly, we couldn’t find a single Vietnamese place that had decent (or any) vegetarian options. But if you’re not restricted by this, I’m theoretically recommending trying Vietnamese cuisine in Prague!
Weirdly, we didn’t go to any vegetarian/vegan specific spots in Prague.
If you’ve been to Prague and you have some good recommendations for Czech food or Vietnamese restaurants that have some delicious veggie options, please let me know in the comments below or via our contact form!
PRAGUE ITINERARY: WHERE TO STAY
We’ve now stayed in quite a few spots in Prague, and these are the ones we recommend!
AIRBNB
We stayed with an awesome host named Zuzana, and her absolutely adorable dog, Oli, in Prague. We loved it there, and even named it as a runner up in our 2018 year end review travel awards. However, it is a bit out of the city (about an hour to get to the Old Town Square). This was literally no issue for us, and it was super convenient anyway since there was a bus that left from right outside the apartment.
If you want to book it, click here. If you’re new to Airbnb, use this nifty link and get £25 off your first booking over £75! Cool, right?
Still, if you’d rather something slightly more central, Zuzana has two other places. We haven’t stayed in this one, but we have stayed here and thoroughly recommend it. It’s incredibly close to Vyšehrad and about a 45 minute walk into the Old Town (or 10-15 minutes by tram).
HOTELS
Grandior: We were unfortunate enough to be flying into Gatwick amidst a drone scare. So our flights were delayed over 12 hours. At which point I – who’s body was desperately trying, and mostly failing, to fight off an infection after a vicious spate of gnat bites and furious scratching – declared I was absolutely not sleeping in an airport. So we gave up, headed back into the city and booked ourselves new flights and a semi-luxury room at the Grandior so that we could destress in style.
It was worth it. I mean, I can’t say it’s packed full of personality, but the staff were friendly, the bed was comfy and full of pillows, and the buffet breakfast was immense. Plus it’s right in the city centre.
BoHo: We didn’t actually stay here, but Jeremy’s aunt and partner did and they absolutely loved it. And I trust them. Plus, I’ve seen photos and it is nice.
Oh, we also had several drinks in the hotel lobby bar. It was swanky, but the vibe was relaxed and chill. We would totally stay here in a heartbeat if we could afford it.
If you can afford the BoHo, book the BoHo!
Have you been to Prague? What did you love? What did you dislike? Did we miss any essential off the beaten path suggestions? Let us know in the comments!
