Exploring WWII in Krakow: Museums & Memorials You Shouldn’t Miss

Stone carving with Torah inscriptions at Schindler's Enamel Factory in Krakow

WE DO NOT RECOMMEND ANY NON-ESSENTIAL TRAVEL AT THIS TIME DUE TO THE GLOBAL HEALTH CRISIS!
Our travel articles have not been updated to reflect any travel restrictions which may be in place; please check with your destination for up-to-date information.


Disclosure: This site contains affiliate links for products and services we recommend. Read our Terms & Conditions for more information. If you make a purchase through these links, at no extra cost to you, we will earn a small commission (for which we are eternally grateful).



Krakow is popular with tourists for its beautiful architecture, charming old town and immense food scene. And Krakow is beautiful; that is undeniable, especially in terms of its architecture. I would say only the old towns of Prague and Tallinn come close to rivaling it. Krakow’s old town has Renaissance, Baroque and Gothic buildings to spare. And Krakow has some world class museums.

But there is a dark side to Krakow’s tourism, as well. This history isn’t hidden: it is the focus of several popular Krakow museums, as well as some less visited sites. 

We are, of course, talking about the Holocaust. This dark history is a huge part of Krakow’s tourism industry. For example, of the 9.6 million tourists that visited in 2018, over 2.15 million went on to visit Auschwitz, which is located approximately 75 km (46 miles) outside of Krakow.

Being dark tourists, we were also keen to explore this macabre history during our short stay in Krakow. The Holocaust has always been of particular interest to me. Arguably, it is one of the main events that got me interested in dark tourism to begin with.

It is important to note that the suffering of the Polish people did not stop after WWII ended. Nevertheless, this article will only focus on Krakow museums and sites related to WWII, the Holocaust and the Nazi occupation.

If you are particularly interested in communism in Krakow, head to the communist museum in the proletarian model city of Nowa Huta. Unfortunately we didn’t make it out there, however we’ve heard nothing but good things. Check out this fantastic itinerary for 3 days in Krakow for more info on Nowa Huta and how to get there.

What you’ll find in this post:

1. A Really Brief History Lesson
2. WWII Dark Tourism Day trips from Krakow
2.1 Auschwitz Concentration Camp
2.2 Wieliczka Salt Mine
3. WWII Memorials and Museums in Krakow
3.1 Kraków-Płaszów Concentration Camp
3.2 Schindler’s Factory
3.3 Remnants of Ghetto Wall
3.4 Eagle Pharmacy
3.5 Ghetto Heroes Square Memorial
3.6 The Cross of Katyń
3.7 2 Pomorska Street
3.8 Martyrdom Monument shot on 20 October 1943
3.9 Wojtek the Soldier Bear Statue 
3.10 Kazimierz – Krakow’s Jewish Quarter
4. Walking Tours

A Really Brief History Lesson

After taking over the city on 6 September 1939, the Nazis declared that Krakow was now the capital of the General Government. This was a newly formed territory of occupied states controlled by the Nazis.

In fact, under the newly appointed Governor General, Hans Frank, the Germans went so far as to have Krakow declared an ancient German city. This was followed by renaming all the streets with German names and spreading propaganda stating that scientific evidence existed to prove Germany’s claim to the city.

Rebranding Krakow as a Nazi capital kept the city safe – while cities like Warsaw were almost razed to the ground.

But that doesn’t mean the city and the people of Krakow did not suffer at the hands of the Nazis. The entire Jewish population was walled off in Krakow’s Jewish Ghetto. Additionally, throughout the war, most of Krakow’s Jewish occupants were transferred out to various concentration camps such as Płaszów, and nearby Auschwitz. Many even ended up as far as Terezín, which was often used as a transfer camp.

WWII Dark Tourism Day Trips from Krakow

Typically we would save day trips for the end of a list. However, since Auschwitz, the number one WWII – and dark tourism – site in the world is also one of the most popular day trips from Krakow, it seemed pertinent to start there.

Both of these sites will eventually be getting their own posts, so I won’t go into much detail here.

Auschwitz Concentration Camp

Electric fences at Auschwitz I
Electric fences at Auschwitz I

Auschwitz is considered to be the worst Nazi concentration and death camp. It is estimated that of the 1.3 million people who passed through its gates, at least 1.1 million died there during WWII.

Auschwitz was actually a complex comprised of around 40 concentration and extermination camps. The main three camps were Auschwitz I, Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz. Today, visitors are able to see Auschwitz I and Birkenau.

The camp was established in 1940, not long after the Germans invaded Krakow. Initially only the army barracks of Auschwitz I were converted, and used to hold political prisoners. But before long, it had expanded into something much more evil.

In 1947, a museum was founded on the site by the state of Poland; and in 1979, it was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status.

It is a difficult trip, but an important one to make – even if you’re not all that interested in dark tourism or history. If you want to go on a tour of Auschwitz, there are plenty of options.

Wieliczka Salt Mine

Salt carving of a miner at Wielizcka Salt Mine
Salt carving at Wielizcka Salt Mine

Wait, what? Yes, the charming Wieliczka salt mine, full of stone carvings of dwarves and delicious, delicious salt has a tie to the Holocaust.

Essentially, during WWII the Nazis transported Jewish prisoners from nearby concentration camps and ghettos to work in the mines. They weren’t actually doing mining – at least not on a large scale. Rather, the Nazis were using Wieliczka to manufacture weapons since the cavernous underground mines provided a modicum of secrecy and protection from outside forces.

Apparently the mines were originally staffed by Germans during WWII, but when an errant bullet killed an officer, they decided it was safer – for the Germans – to force the Jews to do the labour.

We loved the Wieliczka Salt Mine, and it was actually one of our highlights of 2018. If it sounds like your cup of tea, why not arrange one of these tours!

Fun Fact: I’m obsessed with salt – including the history of salt – and one of my favourite facts about Krakow is that salt was so once so important it was used as a major form of currency. At one point you could buy an entire village with a block (we’re obviously talking a large block and quite a while ago). Oh, if only that were still true…

WWII Memorials and Museums in Krakow

Kraków-Płaszów Concentration Camp

Memorial statue at Plaszow former concentration camp in Krakow

Millions of people from around the world travel to Krakow to visit the museum at Auschwitz. Yet few know that the remains of another Nazi Concentration Camp can be found in the outskirts of Krakow itself.

Granted, not as much remains of Płaszów. It was completely destroyed by the Nazis in 1945 to erase any evidence of their crimes. But remnants of its past still exist.

Like several of the KL concentration camps, Płaszów was initially established as a forced labour camp. Many of the Krakow Jews were sent there following the liquidation of the Krakow Ghetto in March 1943, and it was quickly converted into a concentration camp.

Płaszów is actually the camp depicted in Schindler’s List, and under Amon Göth, life in the camp was horrific. Göth was considered to be exceptionally sadistic. He was known for shooting prisoners at random from his living quarters, which sat above the camp. Another favourite torture pastime of his was setting dogs on people.

His ethos towards the Jews was that if one person fought back, all would suffer. The inmates of Płaszów lived in constant fear of Göth, and of all the Nazis.

However, today it is a nature reserve and visitors can walk around the site and see remnants of the camp. Important places are well marked by information plaques. There are also several memorials to the victims, as well as Göth’s house and a former barracks.

While filming Schindler’s List, Steven Spielberg built a replica of the camp in the nearby Liban Quarry. We wrote more about both Płaszów and the Liban quarry in our post on off the beaten path things to do in Krakow.

Location: Abrahama 30-962, 33-332 Kraków (considered the main entrance, but the site is huge and has several entrance points)
Opening Hours: 24 Hours
Cost: Free!

Related: The Heydrich Terror Memorial in Prague

Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory

Outside of the Schindler Factory, one of the most popular museums in Krakow

Schindler’s factory is one of the most popular Krakow museums for tourists. It’s so popular that you have to book in advance.

In case you’re unfamiliar with Schindler, here’s a quick overview:

Oskar Schindler was an Austrian born German, and a member of the Nazi party. He made a living by manufacturing weapons for the Nazis during WWII.

He is also credited with saving the lives of 1200 Jews, whom he employed to work in his factory, and whose freedom he bought in doing so. Schindler spent every penny he had to save the Jews at his factory. Although he is not the only member of the Nazi party to be honoured as Righteous Among the Nations, he was the only one to be buried on Mount Zion in Jerusalem.

Today the factory has been converted into a museum (two, actually, as the MOCAK is housed in part of the factory, as well). The museum tells the story of Schindler and the Schindler Jews, as they are called.

But it also tells the story of life in Krakow under the Nazis (especially within the Krakow Ghetto), the propaganda being broadcast, and the extraordinary lengths people went to in order to survive.

Location: Lipowa 4, 30-702 Kraków
Opening Hours: It varies by season. It’s honestly easier to check their website.
Cost: It was 24 PLN (≈ $6) for adults when we visited, however you can also get a combined ticket with Pomorska Street and the Eagle Pharmacy – check their website for more information. It is free on Mondays – but book early as these slots go fast!

Remnants of the Krakow Ghetto Wall

Fragments of the Krakow Ghetto Wall

Shortly after Krakow was annexed by the Nazis and declared to be part of the newly formed General Government, Hans Frank proposed removing 50,000 Jews from Krakow’s Jewish Quarter. 

Between May 1940 and August 1940, a mass expulsion scheme was legislated. The program was considered voluntary, despite the fact that it was forced relocation. Nevertheless, any Jews that opted to leave were permitted to bring all of their possessions and relocate anywhere within the General Government territory.

By 15 August 1940, over 23,000 Jews had voluntarily evacuated from Krakow. Following this date, all relocations were involuntary. By 25 November 1940, no more Jews were allowed to enter Krakow, and the forced evacuation of over 40,000 Krakow Jews was initiated.

On 20 March 1941, the Krakow Ghetto was established, walling off a section of the city. Around 16,000 Jews were forced to resettle into a space previously home to no more than 3,000.

Conditions within the ghetto were harsh, and residents were not allowed to leave without special permissions. The ghetto was permanently guarded on the outside by the German police force, as well as Polish and Jewish police.

From 13-14 March 1943 the ghetto was liquidated and all the inhabitants were transported to concentration camps – namely Płaszów, Auschwitz and Bełżec.

Over time, most of the ghetto wall has been destroyed and torn down. However, remnants remain and can be found between the Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory Museum and the Eagle Pharmacy.

Location: Main remnants located at 30 548, Lwowska 29, 30-548 Kraków & near the Benediktkirche located at Porucznika Antoniego Stawarza, 33-332 Kraków
Opening Hours: 24 Hours
Cost: Free!

Eagle Pharmacy

Medicines on display at the Eagle Pharmacy, one of our favourite of the WWII Krakow museums

The Eagle Pharmacy operated by Tadeusz Pankiewicz was the only chemist allowed to operate within the Krakow Ghetto. Pankiewicz was also the only non-Jewish Pole permitted within the ghetto.

The Nazis did not want the pharmacy there, but ultimately let it remain open while the ghetto was in operation. Nevertheless, Pankiewicz risked his life on numerous occasions in order to help save the Krakow Jews.

The pharmacy was an incredibly important place. It was the only place those interred within the ghetto walls could go for medical assistance. But it also became a place where residents could meet to discuss revolutionary ideas.

Tadeusz Pankiewicz and his assistants Aurelia Danek, Helena Krywaniuk and Irena Drozdzikowska helped ghetto residents smuggle food and other items between the ghetto and the outside world. In the final days of the Krakow Ghetto, they were also entrusted with valuables by those being involuntarily deported.

We thoroughly enjoyed the Eagle Pharmacy. It is very interactive and although small, it is full of fascinating information. Be aware this is another one of the most touristed museums in Krakow, but nowhere near as busy as the Schindler Factory Museum.

Location: Plac Bohaterów Getta 18, 33-332 Kraków
Opening Hours: Monday 10:00 to 14:00; Tuesday – Sunday 9:00 to 17:00; closed ever 2nd Tuesday of the month
Cost: It was 9 PLN (≈ $2) for adults when we visited, however you can also get a combined ticket with the museums of Pomorska Street and the Schindler Factory – check their website for more information. Admission is free on Mondays.

Ghetto Heroes Square Memorial

Ghetto Heroes Square Memorial

Just outside of the Eagle Pharmacy is a striking memorial of 33 bronze chairs in an open space.

This memorial symbolises those imprisoned in the Krakow Ghetto, and the Krakow Jews whose lives were lost throughout the Holocaust.

Apparently the memorial is quite controversial, with a main criticism being that it is unclear what the chairs represent. Indeed, many people who pass by the memorial sit on the chairs, or pose with them. It is likely they have no idea what they represent.

However, if one is aware of their meaning, you can guess at their significance. After all, art is subjective.

To me, the chairs represent the belongings that will never again be used as their owners are dead, the meals never again eaten; the lives extinguished.

Location: Plac Bohaterów Getta 30-001, 30-547 Kraków
Opening Hours: 24 Hours
Cost: Free!

The Cross of Katyń

The Cross of Katyń Memorial in Krakow

From April to May of 1940, an estimated 22,000 Poles were massacred throughout the Soviet Union by the NKVD. Around 14,000 of those murdered were Polish soldiers or police officers. The rest were educated civilians who were deemed to be dangerous nationalists and counterrevolutionaries.

It is called the Katyn Massacre due to many of the graves being found within the Katyn Forest in Russia. However, there were several execution sites. The main three execution sites were Katyn Forest, and the Kalinin and Kharkiv prisons, all within the former Soviet Union.

The mass graves were unearthed in 1943 by the Nazis. Suspicions were immediate cast on Stalin and the NKVD. But for many years after the war, the USSR refused to admit responsibility and instead pointed the finger at the Nazis, insisting they had murdered them in 1941. It wasn’t until 1990 that Mikhail Gorbachev not only officially acknowledged the tragedy, but denounced the actions of the NKVD, as well as the ensuing government cover-up.

We have a whole post covering the Katyn Massacre and the Katyn Museum in Warsaw if you would like to know more.

Location: In front of the church of St Giles, Grodzka 67, 30-001 Kraków
Opening Hours: 24 Hours
Cost: Free!

2 Pomorska Street

Displays at the Pormoska Street, one of the most impactful Krakow museums

Clearly I have a thing for former gestapo prisons. Much like the Mausoleum of Struggle and Martydom located at the former Szucha Prison, Pomorska Street was the dark tourism highlight for me in Krakow.

2 Pomorska Street was used by the Nazis as a gestapo prison throughout WWII. Prisoners were interrogated, tortured and locked up in the cells beneath the building. Although it is unknown exactly how many Poles were held prisoner at Pomorska – or even how many died there – over 600 inscriptions have been found on the cell walls.

The Pomorska museum is divided into two parts: the permanent exhibit entitled People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956 and the cells.

I was impressed with the permanent exhibit, which details the horrors inflicted on those interred within. The stories of many brave individuals are told throughout. As are the crimes of their captors. 

Following WWII, it is believed that Pomorska was still in use as a prison by the NKVD (Soviet secret police). So part of the permanent exhibit is also about the atrocities perpetrated on the Poles by the Soviets.

The other part of the museum is the prisoner cells. These can only be viewed with a member of staff. Although the cells are not always open, they are opened up regularly throughout the day. A member of staff will come get you when the cells are being opened up.

Definitely do not miss the cells, but be aware they are heartbreaking. Hundreds of messages are etched into the walls. Some merely say the names of prisoners, some are prayers.

Location: 2 Pomorska Street, 30-039 Kraków
Opening Hours: Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 to 17:30
Cost: It was 9 PLN (≈ $2) for adults when we visited, however you can also get a combined ticket with the museums of the Eagle Pharmacy and the Schindler Factory, check their website for more information. Admission is free on Tuesdays.

Martyrdom Monument for those shot on 20 October 1943

Martyrdom Monument shot on 20 October 1943

About a five minute walk from Pomorska Street is a small monument inside a lovely park. If you didn’t know it was there, you probably wouldn’t give the monument much notice.

There is a bench just in front of the monument, so visitors can take time to sit and reflect.

To be honest, I was unable to find anything specific about the event this monument is memorialising. No matter what I researched, nothing popped up for this particular date. If someone does know anything about this event, please let me know.

In some ways, though, the fact that I could find countless other massacres and tragic events on many other days containing 20, October or 1943 just goes to show how much senseless murder was happening at this time.

The text reads:

In Polish:
“Miejsce uswiecone meczenska krwia Polakow walczacych o wolnosc
Tu dnia 20 Pazdziernika 1943 hitlerowcy rozstrzelali 20 Polakow”

In English:
“A place sanctified by the blood of Poles fighting for freedom
Here on October 20, 1943, the Nazis shot 20 Poles”

Location: Aleja Artura Grottgera 16, 30-034 Kraków
Opening Hours: 24 Hours
Cost: Free!

Wojtek the Soldier Bear Statue

Wojtek the Bear with a Soldier
Wojtek the Bear with a Soldier
Image Credit: Imperial War Museum (Public Domain)

Wojtek was a Syrian Brown Bear who served with the Polish Army through WWII. In 1943, he was purchased as a cub at an Iranian railway station. Although he was purchased, the officers felt as though they jad adopted Wojtek and promised to take care of him.

Needing to secure him rations, transportation and accommodation, the Polish II Corps officers had Wojtek enlisted as a soldier. He started off as private, but was eventually promoted to corporal. His main role was to carry weapons for the troops.

Apparently he was a big fan of drinking beer and eating cigarettes.

After the war, Wojtek was moved to Edinburgh and he lived out his days at the Edinburgh Zoo. In addition to journalists, many of his old Polish army buddies would visit regularly. They often tossed him cigarettes to eat.

In 2013, statues commemorating Wojtek were erected in both Krakow and Edinburgh.

Although Wojtek is considered a hero – and he is – I can’t help but be sad for him. While the officers looked after him and treated him like a buddy – albeit a dangerous one in chains – it really just feels like animal cruelty to me. They may have felt like they were saving him when they bought him, but I’m pretty sure feeding him cigarettes and beer wasn’t much better for him. Wojtek died in 1963 at the age of 21 – which is not a particularly long lifespan for a brown bear.

Bears are fairly important in Polish history. There are several hidden – and not hidden – throughout Warsaw, as well. This was actually one of our favourite unusual things to do in Warsaw.

Sadly, we missed out on seeing Wojtek the Soldier Bear Statue and pay our respects. But you can bet it’s on my list for next time!

Location: Jordan Park, Aleja 3 Maja 11, 30-062 Kraków
Opening Hours: Everyday 6:00 to 20:00
Cost: Free!

Related: Animals in War Memorial and other dark tourism sites in London

Kazimierz – Krakow’s Jewish Quarter

Jewish Heritage Street Art in Kazimierz
Jewish Heritage Street Art in Kazimierz

Much like the Jewish Quarter in Prague, Krakow’s Jewish Quarter was once an epicenter of Jewish culture. By the time the Nazis invaded Krakow, there were over 65,000 Jews living in Kazimierz.

Today, only a few thousand Jews remain in Kazimierz.

The community is rebuilding, but scars of the past can be found throughout the neighbourhood. Have a wander around and enjoy the street art, grab a bagel at Bagelmama, and head into a few of the historical sites that celebrate and share the history of the Krakow Jews.

A few sites of note:

Galicia Jewish Museum: Many of the museums in Krakow have something about the struggles of the Jews throughout WWII. And so does the Galicia Jewish Museum. However, this museum also celebrates Jewish life and culture in a way none of the others do. If you want to know more about Jewish life and history in Krakow – and Poland in general – definitely check this place out.

The Old Synagogue: The name is apt, as it is the oldest remaining synagogue in Poland today. Like many synagogues, the Old Synagogue was pillaged during WWII, and all of the art and Jewish relics were looted. Stripped of its Jewish identity, the building was then used throughout WWII as a munitions storehouse. In 1943, 30 Polish hostages were executed against the synagogue wall. Today it has been converted into a museum, a branch of the Historical Museums of Kraków, and tells the story of Krakow’s Jews.

Jewish Star fence overlooking the Old Synagogue in Krakow
Outside of The Old Synagogue in Krakow

The Remah Synagogue: Another important synagogue that survived the war, though it, too, was looted and used as a warehouse. Additionally, many of the Remah Cemetery graves were also destroyed during WWII. After the war, the remaining fragments were used to create a “Wailing Wall” which is also covered in inscriptions in honour of those who perished during the Holocaust.

Bonus: Walking Tours

We love a good walking tour – especially one focused on dark history. There are many available in Krakow, especially if you’re looking for something WWII based. Many of these tours will cover a lot of the places we’ve already discussed (though not all!). But they are great if you’re short on time, or prefer to get your history in the form of oral history. 

Or, maybe you just need to take a break from your Krakow museums whirlwind tour. Trust me, I know how exhausting museum-hopping can get. And if the weather is nice, getting some fresh air can do wonders.

We recommend Walkative (not sponsored, we’re just big fans of walking tours!), which do free tours for Holocaust Traces in Krakow, WWII in Krakow, and Jewish Krakow. Please note that while these are free, it is customary to tip afterwards.

Walkative also have a paid Communist Krakow tour, which takes you out to Nowa Huta.

Last but not least, we absolutely loved the Macabre Krakow Tour. No, this doesn’t have anything to do with WWII, but if you’re at all interested in another dark side to Krakow, this is for you. From serial killers to vampires (okay, with a little Nazi history thrown in), this tour was absolutely brilliant!

Have you visited Krakow? Did you learn a lot about its wartime history? What was the most memorable part of your stay? Let us know in the comments below!

LIKE THIS ARTICLE? WHY NOT PIN IT FOR LATER?

We use cookies to give you the best online experience. By agreeing you accept the use of cookies in accordance with our cookie policy.

Privacy Settings saved!
Privacy Settings

When you visit any web site, it may store or retrieve information on your browser, mostly in the form of cookies. Control your personal Cookie Services here.

These cookies are necessary for the website to function and cannot be switched off in our systems.

In order to use this website we use the following technically required cookies
  • wordpress_test_cookie
  • wordpress_logged_in_
  • wordpress_sec

Decline all Services
Accept all Services